Learning how to clone plants gives you genetically identical copies of a proven mother plant, without the variation that comes from growing a new generation from seed. A cutting taken from an established plant roots into a new, independent plant while keeping every trait of the original intact.
This guide covers why growers choose cloning over seed, how to pick a strong mother plant, the equipment you need, and the A-Grade step-by-step technique for taking and rooting cuttings.
Why clone instead of growing from seed?
Seeds are genetically unique, so a packet of ten seeds can produce ten plants with different heights, yields and other traits. Cloning skips that variability entirely, because every cutting is a genetic duplicate of the mother plant.
- Genetically identical plants every time
- Consistent vigour across a batch
- Shorter vegetative phase than starting from seed
- Up to five grow cycles a year instead of three to four
Finding a good mother plant
Germinate several seeds of the variety you want, then grow them all to sexual maturity before making any decisions. Take a backup clone from each plant and label it, then let the originals finish flowering so you can compare bud density, height, colour and yield.
Keep the clone from whichever plant performed best and use it as your ongoing mother plant. This phenotype selection process is standard practice in horticultural propagation for identifying superior parental stock.
🌱 Equipment for taking cuttings
Cloning success depends more on using the right tools than on any special skill. A clean, sharp cut matters far more than speed.
- Scalpel (not scissors, which crush plant tissue)
- 1ml dosing pipettes
- 1–2L jug for mixing rooting solution
- Rooting gel or powder, such as Ryzofuel or Azos
- Heat mat for cooler months
- Propagation dome
- Propagation cubes or plugs
💡 A-Grade Tip: Always make your cutting underwater with a scalpel angled at 45 degrees. This stops an air pocket from entering the stem, which is one of the most common causes of failed or delayed root formation.
See A-Grade's full range of propagation kits and equipment.
The A-Grade cloning technique, step by step
1. Soak your propagation cubes
Mix 1ml of Ryzofuel per litre of water and soak your cubes for around 15 minutes. Scale this up for larger batches — for example, 10ml per 10L bucket.
2. Prepare the cubes
Gently squeeze each soaked cube to remove excess moisture, then place it on the propagation tray. Roots need oxygen to form, so aim for the cube holding roughly 80–90% of its water capacity rather than being fully saturated.
3. Take the cutting
Remove a healthy cutting from the mother plant and place it straight into a jar of water. Using a scalpel, make a 45-degree cut on the stem while it's submerged, which prevents an air pocket from blocking water and nutrient uptake.
4. Insert and cover
Place the cutting into a pre-soaked cube, then fit a humidity dome over the tray with the vents closed for the first two to three days to hold humidity high while the cutting has no roots to draw up water itself.
5. Monitor and transplant
If roots haven't started forming by day three, mist the cutting with a weak solution such as Humiboosta. Most cuttings show root development within five to seven days in the right conditions, at which point they're ready to move into coco coir or a hydroponic system.
Hold off feeding any nutrient solution until roots are visible. Purdue University's consumer horticulture program notes that a cutting relies on its own stored carbohydrates and energy reserves to generate new roots, so premature feeding doesn't help and can stress the cutting.
Understanding rooting hormone
Rooting hormone products such as Ryzofuel and Azos work by supplying auxin, the plant hormone responsible for triggering root formation at a cut site. Purdue Extension notes that the two synthetic auxins most commonly used in propagation are IBA (indolebutyric acid) and NAA (naphthaleneacetic acid).
Michigan State University Extension research indicates that liquid auxin-based rooting hormones are generally more effective than powder formulations at the same concentration, which is why a diluted liquid dip is standard practice for cuttings that are slower to root.
Common cloning problems and fixes
| Problem | Likely cause | Status | Fix |
|---|---|---|---|
| No roots by day 7 | Low humidity or weak auxin uptake | Common | Mist with a weak rooting solution and check dome seal |
| Wilting cutting | Air pocket in stem or low humidity | Common | Re-cut underwater at 45 degrees, check dome vents are closed |
| Mould in dome | Overwatered cubes or poor airflow | Occasional | Squeeze cubes to 80–90% capacity, vent dome briefly each day |
| Yellowing leaves | Premature feeding | Occasional | Withhold nutrients until roots are visible |
Cloning is one of the most reliable ways to reproduce a proven plant without the guesswork that comes with seed. Get the mother plant selection right, keep your tools sharp and clean, and manage humidity carefully during the rooting window.
Browse A-Grade Hydroponics' propagation equipment range to get set up, or get in touch with the team if you've got questions about your own cloning setup.
