Monster cropping is a clonal propagation technique that takes a cutting from an already-flowering plant and reverts it back to vegetative growth. Unlike a standard clone taken from a vegetative-stage plant, a monster crop cutting comes from the very top of the main stem, typically 7–14 days after flowering has been initiated. The result is a hardier, faster-establishing clone once it's reverted — useful for growers running a perpetual harvest across multiple rooms.
What is monster cropping?
Technically, every cutting taken from a mother plant is a clone. What separates a monster crop from a standard clone is timing: if the cutting is taken during the plant's vegetative phase, it's a regular clone. If it's taken after flowering has started, it's a monster crop.
Once removed, the cutting is placed under a vegetative photoperiod in a separate growing space. Over roughly 4–6 weeks, it gradually reverts from flowering back to vegetative growth. This reversion is visible in the leaves — single, alternate mono leaflets typical of flowering growth transform back into the normal decussate (opposite-pair) leaf pattern, which is where the "monster" name comes from.
Why growers use monster cropping
The main driver is time management. Reverting cuttings slow their growth rate dramatically during the transition, which buys growers time to finish drying and clearing one room while the next generation gets established elsewhere.
Monster cropping also shortens the flowering period for the next generation of plants and can increase the number of flowering sites once the reverted clone matures, since it branches more heavily than a standard vegetative cutting.
Supplies needed to monster crop
- Scalpel
- Grow cubes or a coco coir pot
- Cloning gel or rooting tonic
- Jug of water
Step-by-step: taking a monster crop
Prepare your growing medium
Pre-soak grow cubes in a solution made with your chosen rooting tonic before taking any cuttings. Submerge the cubes fully, then give each one a gentle pinch to release excess liquid before laying them out on a propagation tray, ready for cuttings.
If you're using a coco coir pot instead, fill it loosely with coco, flood it with your rooting tonic solution, and let it drain fully before inserting the cutting.
Take the cutting
Select a stem from the top of the main stem, 7–14 days after flowering has been initiated, and place it in a jug of water immediately. While the stem stays submerged, make a 45-degree cut underwater — this stops air bubbles entering the stem and blocking water uptake.
Apply cloning gel and plant
If you're using a cloning gel, dip the freshly cut stem into the gel straight after the underwater cut, then insert it directly into your prepared substrate.
💡 A-Grade Tip: Speed matters here — the gap between the underwater cut and inserting the cutting into substrate should be as short as possible to reduce the risk of air entering the stem and causing the cutting to fail.
Caring for the reverting cutting
Once planted, the cutting needs a consistent vegetative photoperiod to trigger reversion. Growth will be slow for the first few weeks as the plant redirects energy into reverting rather than rooting quickly — this is normal, not a sign of a failed clone.
💡 A-Grade Tip: Keep humidity high and light intensity moderate during the first 1–2 weeks. A stressed, reverting cutting has less energy to spare for establishing roots, so a gentler environment early on improves your success rate.
Final tip on monster cropping
Monster cropping trades a few extra weeks of reversion time for a hardier, more heavily branched clone — a worthwhile swap for growers running a perpetual harvest across multiple rooms. Get the timing of the cut right, work quickly through the underwater cut and gel application, and give the reverting cutting a gentle environment while it finds its feet.
Shop A-Grade Hydroponics' seed and clone care range for rooting tonics, cloning gels and propagation trays to support your next monster crop.
